She Said:
(An aside from a few days ago...
All the towns and/or districts in England brew their own special beers. There is a brewery that brews "Abbott" beer, named for the Abbotts and Abbeys that used to be ubiquitous across the British countryside, until Henry VIII did his 'off with their heads' thing. Killed quite a few Abbotts, Henry did.
So, if you want an Abbott ale, and feel the need to down it in fast fashion, you say you could 'Murder an Abbott' - which is certainly one of the very best marketing tag lines I have heard in a long time!)
A banner day today!
Our driver picked us up today and drove us to Simonsbath, and the start of our walk. Not until after a little drama, though. He drove us through a beautiful valley that he says is just covered with white snowdrops (winter flowers) near the December holidays - quite a sight. The valley was gorgeous, with 10' high hedgerows on either side of the road (more of just a track). But then, a fallen tree (large) across the road, so a 4-point turn around and back up the valley.
No worries - lovely country roads.
Today our walk started with a climb up to the moors. Not until after a little more drama, though.
Once we found our trailhead, the skies turned dark. We opted to hang out under some trees and put our rain gear on, as there didn't seem like any let-up was coming. Again, no worries. Once the rain gear is on, the rain becomes an atmospheric addition, rather than a nuisance.
Up we climbed, onto the moors.
We passed the Wheal Eliza cottage ruins, once the sight of a working mine (tin? copper?).
The path was covered with shale? slate? - in any case, the stone walls that were left, and the new ones being built, are made of shale/slate stacked vertically. A nice change from the usual rock/stone, horizontal walls.
We followed a high stream through a high valley with moorland on either side of us. All the while, heading towards Great Ferny Ball and Cow Castle (don't you just love these place names?) We passed what our Ordinance Survey map said was a forest, but sadly, it was a clear cut, the result of a fire.
Because of the rain, we had some muddy walking today, but the higher we climbed, the more beautiful the scenery became.
Now, it is true that canal walks and valley walks and country lanes and quaint villages are all well and good - lovely and pretty and charming.
But, the moors.
Well, the moors make your mind wander. Maybe it's because they are barren and bleak and there are no distractions. Maybe it's because they are high and windy, with big skies and bigger clouds.
I don't know, but the Bronte's did have it right - the moors are the perfect place for Heathcliffs and Rochesters and brooding men and hopeful women. You can certainly spin a story in not much time, up there on the moors.
I loved them and was sorry to see the path bring us down off them.
Into the village of Withypool, where we commandeered the Saint Andrew's church (12c) vestibule and happily ate our lunch, looking out at the tiny town.
Fueled up, we set off towards the Tarr Steps (not la Brea tar pits stuff - just another wonky place name - though, in Lorna Doone's time, there were dangerous mud pots and areas of quicksand that swallowed up animals and non-vigilant - or drunk - people, now and again.)
Forest floors covered in bluebells, always a welcome sight in the woods this time of year. Real carpeting!
A perfect country walk, lots of diversity and jaw-dropping scenery.
Until...
Boulders, tree roots, mud and a 45 degree slope to the path. Slow going. Must pay attention. A mile or so!
Then, gentleness again and the end in sight.
We rewarded ourselves with ice cream cones from the wagon at the Tarr Steps car park.
Scooped up by our driver, back to the Luttrell Arms, hiking clothes laundry done, showers taken, wine consumed, and patiently waiting for Spring Watch to be broadcast tonight on BBC 2 (I hope, I hope! - our driver said it starts tonight).
Total Mileage:
12.17 miles (Simonsbath, Cow Castle, Withypool, Tarr Steps)
Total Flights Climbed:
30
He said:
We walked through beautiful, unspoiled country today, a rather long walk, mostly along the River Barle. This is pristine land and a joy to be in, even starting in the rain was enjoyable once we were properly suited up. The weather was dramatic and it changed from wet to dry and the day went on. My feet are a bit sore, but it was worth every step of the way, muddy, gloppy, or angular ankle tweak. Even though it was a Sunday, we saw relatively few walkers, probably because the distances are long and the weather wet. Wow, I was so happy to see country like this, and an unspoiled river and valley.
Wow looked like a gorgeous day even with the rain. Those stone walls, the green hill, the big clouds, the little lambs... fantastic!
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